Article by Kezzia, Founder of Incicellar – as featured in Issue 8 of Beauty Folio Magazine
Fermented ingredients have become some of the most sought after actives in modern formulations. From essences and serums to masks, scalp care and hybrid products, fermentation is reshaping how formulators approach efficacy, skin compatibility and ingredient innovation.
But why now? And what is it about fermentation that makes these ingredients so appealing in today’s skincare formulations?
Fermentation is one of humanity’s oldest preservation techniques. Used for centuries in food, medicine and herbal preparations, it relies on microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast or fungi to transform raw materials into something more bioavailable and stable.
In skincare and haircare, this same process is applied to botanical extracts, grains, algae and mushrooms. Through fermentation, complex compounds are broken down into smaller molecules that the skin and hair can more readily recognise and utilise. The result is an ingredient that is often gentler, more effective and better tolerated than its unfermented counterpart. This is where tradition meets modern cosmetic science which strongly resonates with today’s conscious consumer-those who value heritage processes, but still expect visible results.
Enhanced bioavailability and gentle efficacy
One of the key reasons fermented ingredients continue to grow in popularity is their enhanced bioavailability. Fermentation can increase the concentration of beneficial compounds such as amino acids, peptides, organic acids such as lactic acid, and antioxidants.
This often means improved performance without the need for harsh penetration enhancers or excessively high active percentages. For the skin and scalp, it can translate into better absorption, improved tolerance and a reduced risk of irritation which is particularly important in products designed for sensitive, compromised or barrier-impaired skin.
Supporting the skin barrier and microbiome
As awareness around the skin barrier and microbiome has increased, fermented ingredients have naturally moved into focus. Many fermented extracts contain postbiotic compounds that help
support a balanced skin environment rather than disrupt it. Instead of stripping or overwhelming the skin, these ingredients work in harmony with the skin’s natural ecosystem, supporting resilience, calming inflammation and improving overall comfort. This aligns closely with the current shift away from aggressive routines and towards skin barrier
loving formulations.
Fermentation beyond skincare: benefits for hair and scalp
Fermented ingredients are also increasingly valued in hair and scalp formulations. Fermented rice, in particular, has a long-standing cultural association with hair care, traditionally used to enhance smoothness, shine and strength. Through fermentation, rice becomes richer in amino acids, peptides and minerals, making it especially beneficial for modern haircare applications. These compounds can help improve hair
manageability, enhance softness and shine, and support overall hair fibre resilience. In scalp care, fermented rice ingredients are often used to promote comfort and balance, supporting the skin at the
root of healthy hair. As haircare continues to move closer to skincare in both formulation philosophy and consumer expectation, fermented ingredients sit naturally at the intersection of the two.
Sustainability and ingredient efficiency
Fermentation also offers advantages from a sustainability perspective. It can extract more beneficial compounds from the same plant, mushroom, or grain, reducing the amount of raw material needed overall. Less harvesting means less pressure on ecosystems. Fermentation also enhances the usefulness of ingredients, allowing formulators to get more functional value from plants, grains, and
fungi while reducing waste. Some processes improve stability and longevity, lowering the need for heavy processing or synthetic stabilisers. Fermentation can also make use of by-products or leftover materials, and support locally sourced crops maximising impact while lowering environmental footprint. In an industry increasingly driven by transparency, traceability, and environmental responsibility,
fermentation lets formulators innovate while staying kind to the planet.
Fermentation recognised by the formulation industry
The growing relevance of fermented ingredients has also been formally recognised within the formulation community. Formula Botanica recently highlighted fermentation in its Top 7 Cosmetic Ingredients Predictions for 2026. This recognition shows the industry is moving towards ingredients that do more, are gentler on the skin, and support the skin’s barrier and microbiome.
Fermentation in practice
At Incicellar, we’re exploring fermentation as part of our focus on thoughtful, effective ingredients. Our range includes British oat ferment for soothing and barrier support, fermented rice for brightening and conditioning the skin, and improving hair manageability and shine. We also offer fermented Reishi and Shiitake mushrooms for their calming and antioxidant benefits. Fermentation continues to open new creative and functional possibilities, and with this in mind, we will be launching new fermented ingredients this spring, more details will be shared very soon.
Not just a trend
Fermented ingredients reflect a broader evolution in cosmetics, not just a fad, one that prioritises skin health, barrier support, microbiome balance and long-term results over short-term intensity. As ingredient innovation continues and fermentation techniques become more refined, we can expect to see increasingly targeted, sophisticated fermented actives entering the cosmetic market. For formulators, fermentation offers a powerful bridge between nature and science. And for skin and hair alike, that thoughtful transformation makes all the difference.
Beauty Folio 